
The Mount consists of two sections - the filament drive support and the hot-end mounting plate.
Attach the support pieces to the base using the 12mm M3 screws.
The spacer plate goes between the inner and outer mounts and rests directly against the base plate. The space plate is needed as the motor needs to be up a little to provide room for the M4 mounting screw that goes directly below the motor. You may want to put the M4 mounting screw in before attaching the motor or you can put the mount together and then later remove the motor, mount the plastruder and then re-attach the motor.
Be sure the filament path in the spacer plate is centered in the opening of the base plate. In order for the plastruder to work, the filament must have a clear path from the top of the filament drive through the tip of the nozzle.

Use the two 45mm M3 screws to attach the filament drive as shown. Use two washers with the 45mm M3 screws otherwise the filament drive will not be tight (due the to the thread depth in the gearhead. If the mount is screwed all the way into the gearhead but does not seem tight, use additional washers).
When you attach the BrutHead, check and make sure the filament path aligns with the opening in the spacer plate. It helps to loosen the screws holding the idler block to get an unobstructed view. You can also use a metal rod (a long hex wrench, for example, to check the alignment). You can also change the orientation of the mount to suit your needs. If you change the orientation, be sure that the filament path is aligned all the way through.

Your hot-end slides into the GrooveMount plate. (Depending on your plastruder batch, your hot-end may be different then the one shown here.)

Mount your hot-end and filament drive on the carriage. It is attached using two M4 screws. If you did not place the M4 mounting screw under the motor, you'll need to first remove the motor, attach the mount and then re-attach the motor. (I really try to avoid steps like this - the mount will evolve.)



