These instructions are currently being updated (5/9/10) to include changes for HBP v1.1. Photos related to HBP v1.1 have green backgrounds.

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HBP 1.0 Kit Contents:

• 4″ × 4″ × 1/8" Ceramic Plate
• 4″ × 4″ Kapton Film
• Arctic Alumina 5 min. Epoxy (labeled “A”)
• (2) 4.2g Duralco 132P-IP Resin (labeled “D”)
• (2) .3g Duralco 132P-IP Hardener (attached to Resin)
• (2) 6" Bamboo Skewers
• Latex Glove
• (4) Ring Magnets
• (4) M3 20mm Screws
• (4) Small M3 Ring Terminals
• (4) M3 Nuts
• (8) M3 Lock-nuts
• (6) 10mm Washers
• (5) 1/4" Stud Ring Terminals
• Modified Y-stage
• Clear Plastic Sheet
• (4) Popsicle Sticks
• (2) Four-Pin Connectors (1-Male, 1-Female)
• Two sets 2-pin Molex locking connectors with crimp pins*
• (2) 4’ (22 AWG) Wire
• Sand Paper
• 750mm 26ga Nichrome Wire
• Handmade Hot Pad

*The molex connectors were not included in the first batch but were later sent to first batch owners.

HBP 1.1 Kit Contents:

• 4” x 4” x 1/8” Ceramic Plate
• 4” x 4” Kapton Film
• Clear Plastic Sheet – for mixing Duralco
• 4” X 4” X 1/16” Aluminum Plate
• (2) Pieces 2” x 4” Ceramic Tape
• (2) 4.2g Duralco 132-IP Resin (labeled “D”)
• (2) .3g Duralco 132-IP Hardener (attached to Resin)
• Latex Glove
• (8) Small Ring Magnets – 4 are extras
• (2) Larger Magnets
• (4) M3 20mm Screws
• (4) Small M3 Ring Terminals
• (6) M3 Nuts – 2 are extras
• (6) Washers – 2 are extras
• (5) 1/4” Stud Ring Terminals
• (2) Springs – 1 is an extra
• (1) LED and (1) 1k Resistor
• Modified Y Stage with M3 EZ-Loc Inserts
• (4) Popsicle Sticks
• (2) 6” Bamboo Skewers
• ATX Power Connector
• (5) Molex – 2 male, 3 female
• (6) Crimp Pins – 6 male, 8 female (2 of each are extras)
• Sand Paper
• (2) 4' Pieces 22ga Wire – 1 Black, 1 Purple
• (1) 4' Piece 24ga Wire - Brown
• 21” Piece 24ga Nichrome Wire – you will only use 3.7ohms

What you’ll need to supply:

• Eye protection
• 2.5mm hex wrench
• Pliers (preferably needle nose)
• Soldering iron and solder
• Wire cutter/stripper
• Small round metal file (or use included sandpaper)
• Alligator clips (or the equivalent)
• Kapton Tape
• Mechanical “3rd hand”, vise, or other tool to hold connectors while soldering
• Extruder Controller Board (for heating the nichrome)

Step 1: Prepare your new Y stage
Step 2: Prepare Mounting Connectors
Step 3: Epoxy the Nichrome
Step 4: Epoxy the Mounting Connectors
Step 5: Optional: Epoxy the Thermistor
Step 6: Complete Y-stage
Step 7: Heat. Test. Print!

Step 0:

Make yourself a nice cup of tea, put on some relaxing music, crack your knuckles and dig in…
Also, spend a few minutes on the MakerGear Google Group to get the latest tips and build advice.

Step 1: Prepare your new Y stage

You’ll need:

• New Y-Stage
• Four 20mm socket-head screws
• Four ring magnets
• Four M3 Ring Terminal Connectors (smaller ring terminals)
• Four regular M3 nuts
• Eight M3 lock-nuts
• Four 10mm washers

• Pliers (preferably needle nose)
• 2.5mm hex wrench
• Small round metal file (or use the supplied sand paper)

First remove the old Y-stage from your bot and check that the new Y stage fits. It is cut to the same specs but if there is an issue let’s identify it now. After verifying the new Y stage fits, carefully remove it so that the stand-offs can be set-up. Since lasers cut at a slight angle you might find that one side of the Y stage fits a little better than the other. Note which side you want to be up.

The photo also includes a washer (10mm outside diameter, 5mm inside diameter) – there are six of these washers in the kit. You’ll use four of them and two are for practice. Practice?? Pick four of them that slide smoothly over the heads of your 20mm M3 screws. If they don’t slide smoothly you’ll need to use a file or the sandpaper to sand the screw-head, inner washer or both until you have four washers that slide smoothly over the screw-heads. These washers will keep your heated build platform firmly in position during printing so you want to take your time and do a good job on this. Also, you should be able to slide all four washers over all of the screw-heads otherwise you’ll need to keep track of which screw goes with which washer and I don’t think you want to mess with that. You can use the remaining two washers for practice in Step 2.

Assemble the stand-offs to match the photo. Screw-head → ring magnet → ring terminal → M3 nut → space → Locknut → Y-stage → Lock-nut. Mount the lock nuts so that the flat surface is against the Y-stage. Mount the ring terminal so that the connector tube is flush as this makes it easier to adjust the M3 nut but it will work either way. Assemble all four of the stand-offs, mount them on the Y-stage keeping track of the up side you noted for the Y-stage.

Place your new Y stage upside down and place the four stand-off heads onto a flat surface. Adjust your stand-offs until the four heads are totally even, no wobble – this is important for when we later attach the mounting connectors to the ceramic plate.

HBP v1.1 uses a different Y-stage - threaded inserts are used and the lock-nuts are no longer needed. Use the leg with spring supported washer (photo) for handling heater current - it helps to maintain good contact when the stage moves and vibrates. Once you've attached the spring make sure the washer can move freely. Then, have the leg with the spring stick out a little more than the other legs. This way the legs with magnets will pull the ceramic plate into position and the spring will compress a little holding the washer in contact with the washer on the ceramic plate.

 

Step 2: Prepare Mounting Connectors

You’ll need:

• Four large ring terminal connectors
• Four 10mm washers (from previous step)
• Sandpaper

• soldering iron (crank up the temp, you’ll want it hot)
• pliers
• mechanical “3rd hand”, vice or other device to hold parts while soldering
• something sharp like a fine tipped screwdriver

**For a very detailed and excellent blog entry about the preparation for this step, visit Matz Making Stuff

We are going to solder the washer to the ring terminal connectors. Since the washers are going to hold the heated platform in position and since you’ll be frequently removing the heated platform – you’ll want to do very good job soldering the washers to the ring terminals. Lightly sand both sides of the ring terminal connector – just remove the glossy finish and make it a little rough. One side of the ring terminal will be connected to the washer. The other side will be epoxied to the ceramic plate.

One side of the washers has a slight ridge and the other side is smooth and rounded. The side with the ridge is to be solder to the ring terminal. Take your sharp object and scratch up the ridged side. Scratch it up good. Then take your sand paper and lightly sand it so that the side to be soldered is nice and rough. Mount one washer in your 3rd hand or vise with the rough side up and heat it with you iron. Put some solder on the rough side and spread it around with the iron. If the solder is balling up you will not get a strong connection with the ring terminal. If you can’t get the solder to stick to the washer, let the washer cool, take it out and scratch it and sand it more. Turn the washer in the 3rd hand until the whole rough side is coated. If you get solder on the back of the terminal ring or along the inside you need to remove it or solder it flush.

Insert a ring terminal into your 3rd hand or vice and place the iron on the connector tube at the base of the ring. Insert your solder into the tube. It will melt and fill-up a portion of the tube. Later you will attach your nichrome or thermistor (optional) lead here.

Then apply solder all around the ring section. If you get it in the middle or on the bottom, you will need to remove it or sand it flush.

Now, you are going to solder the washer to the terminal ring. We’ve included an extra terminal ring and washer so that you can practice this step. With the ring terminal in your 3rd hand or vise, place the soldered sides together. Center the washer on the ring. It does not need to be perfectly centered but you should not see any of the ring through the washer when you are done here. The M3 screw-head needs to be be able to enter and exit smoothly.

Hold the washer in place on the ring terminal with pliers and touch the iron between the washer and the connector tube. It may take a while but you should feel the washer fall into position when the solder melts. This much solder will stay liquid for several seconds after removing the iron. Either wait ten seconds or blow on the ring terminal. Once the washer is soldered to the ring terminal you should not be able to see the ring terminal through the washer. Take a small screwdriver and try to pry the washer off the ring terminal. Apply significant force but not enough to bend the ring terminal. If it is not a good connection you want it to come off now when it is still easy to fix. Fixing this after the ring terminal is epoxied to the ceramic plate is much more challenging. Practice this a couple of times and then once you are certain you are getting strong solder joints, solder four washers onto four ring terminals.

If you have a problem melting the solder while the pliers are in contact - you can remove the pliers, melt the solder and then squeeze the washer onto the ring terminal.

Step 3: Epoxy the Nichrome

You’ll Need:

• Ceramic plate – Don’t drop it, you can break it!!
• Nichrome wire
• Thermally conductive Epoxy (container labeled “D” for Duralco 132)
• Popsicle stick
• Plastic mixing sheet
• Wood skewer

• Kapton Tape
• Alligator clips (or the equivalent)
• Extruder controller board

 

*For HBP v1.1 you should only use 3.7 ohms (or slightly more) of nichrome. Your layout will look like the above photo. You will not have the multiple loops like HBP v1.0 did. The nichrome included in the kit is longer than needed. The longer piece can be helpful during the during the epoxy process and then the piece can be trimmed to the final length when attaching the ring terminals.

Using small pieces of Kapton tape, tape your nichrome to the ceramic as shown in the photo. Leave at least 5mm around each large hole and at least 3mm around each small hole (even if it is not drilled, so that you can drill it later, if needed). The nichrome is about 750mm long and you will use about 700mm. If you leave one end of the Kapton loose it is much easier to remove it later. You just need to hold the nichrome in place while you apply the epoxy.

Now, you need to connect your nichrome to the heater port (port B) on your extruder controller board. Turn off your bot!! You are going to use the controller to warm the ceramic for easy application of the epoxy and then you are going to turn up the heat so that the epoxy cures in minutes. I’ve hooked-up the nichrome leads using alligator clips. I don’t suggest connecting alligator clips directly to your extruder board as it is very easy to cause a short. Rather, connect hook-up wire to your extruder board and then connect your alligator clips between your hook-up wire and nichrome leads. Be certain there are no shorts before turning on your bot.

Once you’ve established the connection, turn on your bot and open Control Panel in RepG. You need to be using at least v1.6 firmware on your extruder controller for this to work. The measured temp field will be zero since we are not using a thermistor. (You can certainly wire up a thermistor and hook it up to measure the temp, if you’d like). Set the temp field to 50 and then change the focus to another field so that RepG registers the temp setting (in other words, click in another field after you set the temp). Verify that the nichrome is getting hot – don’t touch the wire! Just put your hand near it. Once you’ve verified that it is heating up, leave the temp at 50 for one minute. Then, set the value in the temp field to 0. This will not turn off the controller but it will drop the voltage to the nichrome and just keep it warm.

You should have two sets of plastic of epoxy containers labeled “D”. Pick either set. Using the supplied plastic sheet or your own plastic work material, use a supplied supplied Popsicle stick to remove the resin (thick gray substance) and place it on your work area. The amounts of resin and hardener have been carefully weighed so try and remove as much as you can from the containers. We’ve compensated for the bit that you won’t be able to get out, but scrape the sides and bottom so that only a thin film is let. Then, remove the hardener (translucent goop) and thoroughly blend them together. You will have a very thick paste. You can apply it using the Popsicle stick but I’ve found the skewer is easier to work with.

Get a small amount on the end of the skewer and then slowly drag the skewer along some exposed nichrome. You’ll notice that the epoxy “melts” and becomes very easy to work with. If you want to apply epoxy to the right of the wire, rotate the skewer to the right. To apply it to the left, rotate it left. Continue doing this until all of the exposed nichrome (except the leads) is adhered to the ceramic with a thin layer of epoxy. It is likely that some of your nichrome is not directly touching the ceramic – there is a probably a few mm gap. Continue applying epoxy until it more or less matches the above photo. You’ll be able to press the wire down during the curing phase to resolve this.

Now, turn up the heat by setting the temp field in RegG to 50 again. This time leave it at 50 as this will cure the ceramic – the amount of time will depend on multiple factors but is primarily impacted by how much epoxy you used. In about five minutes you should notice the epoxy getting sticky and beginning to harden. Use a fine tipped object like a small screw driver and periodically press down on any nichrome that is not flush with the ceramic. Don’t short the wire!! Then, remove the object you are using to press down. If the wire pops back up quickly then it is not ready yet. Keep trying this periodically and you’ll notice the wire begins to stick. Then, hold the wire down for 30 – 60 seconds and should stay in place. Do this for any nichrome that is not flush. [The curing process is usually slow enough that you should be able to do sequentially – fix the first piece of lifted wire, then the second piece, etc. but if there is a lot of lifted wire you may need to do some of it consecutively.]

The epoxy will cure to a hardened state – you will be able to tap it with a screwdriver and it will produce and audible “ting”. It is not soft or sticky, it is hard. At that point, set the power back to zero in RepG and turn off the power to your bot. Let it cool for several minutes.

Carefully remove the remaining tape except for the pieces holding the nichrome leads in place and repeat the above process. you ceramic platform should now more or less match the above photo.

If you haven’t already, set the temp to zero in RepG and turn off your bot. Disconnect the aligator clips from your nichrome leads and carefully bend the nichrome as shown in this photo. Cut the leads so they are even with the edge of the mounting hole.

Step 4: Epoxy the Mounting Connectors

You’ll Need:

• Y-stage
• Mounting connectors from Step 2
• Ceramic Plate with epoxied nichrome
• “D” epoxy (already mixed)

• Soldering iron
• Pliers
• Small magnet (to help when mounting the optional thermistor)
• Heavy non-metalic object to hold down the Y-stage while epoxy cures (or you can just hold it in place for several minutes)
• Extruder controller board

Now, it is time to solder your modified ring terminal connectors to the nichrome leads and then epoxy the ring terminals to the ceramic plate.

To solder the nichome to the ring terminal, touch the iron to the nichrome lead while holding the ring terminal in place with pliers. It may take several seconds but the nichrome should slide into the ring terminal connector. Be careful not to overheat the ring terminal or your washer may come loose. Do this for both nichrome leads.

This photo shows all four ring terminals in position prior to being epoxied.

If you are mounting a thermistor (this is optional, the platform will work with out it) then this is a good time to do it. The process is very similar to attaching the nichrome except that thermistors are fragile and care must be taken not to damage the leads. Since thermistors stick to magnets, I’ve found that a basic magnet does a nice job of keeping a thermistor from getting lost or jumping around.

Mount your thermistor as shown here. If you use a thin (1/4" or less) magnet, you can just leave it in place during the next steps as it will not interfere with the Y stage. Solder the thermistor leads to the ring terminals the same way you attached the nichrome.

• As you go through this step and mount the ring terminals on the ceramic, be certain the standoffs are adjusted so that each ring terminal is being held into place. If the standoffs are not level, you may not get good adhesion for one or more of the ring terminals. In other words, make sure the ring terminals are flat and in position before curing the epoxy.

Place epoxy on the bottom of all of the ring terminal connectors. Put the epoxy around the ring, along the neck and under the tube portion. Then put each ring terminal in the proper location – it will not adhere well. Then – carefully – attach the Y stage to the terminal rings. The positioning of the Y stage stand-offs and terminal rings is trapezoidal so make sure it is properly aligned. The magnets will grab the ring terminals and pull them into position. Then, push down on the Y stage so that each ring terminal is flush with the ceramic. If you have a heavy, non-metallic object (no shorts) you can put it on the Y stage to keep it in position. Attach alligator clips to the nuts connected to the nichrome and set the temp to 50 in RegG. We are turning up the heat to cure the epoxy again. This will likely take 20 minutes but let it heat for at least 30 minutes before attempting to remove the Y stage.

[This is a photo of a completed heated platform as I did not have a good photo of this step. The only difference is that more epoxy is showing in this photo – but it should demonstrate what you should be seeing.]

This photos show the Y-stage being held in the place by a jar of marbles and the alligator clips are connected to the nuts connected to the nichrome. Be certain the terminal rings are flush (or very close to flush). Use hand pressure, if necessary, to keep the Y stage flat.

Once the ceramic is cured – plus an additional 30 minutes of heat – turn off the heat, turn off your bot and let the ceramic cool for a few minutes. Carefully remove the Y-stage by lifting two legs up a few millimeters followed by lifting the other two legs. Practice this a few times and it quickly becomes second nature. You don’t want to rip off the ring terminals!!!!

After removing the Y-stage you can go through and touch up the epoxy. You can also epoxy around the ring terminals, cover the exposed portion of ring terminal, etc. Epoxy to taste :) I suggest going around the ring terminals to make sure they are attached securely. Just make sure not to epoxy where the magnets connect to the washer – otherwise have at it. I found applying epoxy to be an enjoyable experience and went kind of overboard :) If you’ve attached a thermistor proceed to the next step. If you did not attach a thermistor go ahead and heat up the ceramic again – you can do it with or without the Y stage – and cure the epoxy. Proceed to Step 6.

HBP v1.1 also contains an LED and 1k resistor. You may want to solder the 1k resistor to one of the LED leads and then attach the LED leads to the ring terminals connected to the nichrome. When the HBP is powered and has good connectivity the LED will illuminate. If the LED does not come on (assuming you have the LED oriented properly) or it is on intermittently, it means there is a problem with the connection. The LED is very handy when trying to diagnose connection issues. Just make sure the LED is oriented (positive and negative leads) properly or it won't work at all.

Also, if your HBP has been working fine for a while and then the connection becomes intermittent (an example would be the HBP temperature dropping during a build) one or more magnets may be losing power. Also, the washers that conduct power need to be cleaned periodically - sandpaper does a good job.

Step 5: Epoxy the Thermistor

You’ll Need:

• Ceramic Plate
• “D” epoxy (already mixed)

• Extruder controller board

Briefly heat up your ceramic plate, if it is not already warm (so that your epoxy will flow easily) and then epoxy the thermistor as shown here. Then, heat up the board again so that epoxy cures.

Step 6: Complete Y-stage

Update: We’ve replaced the 4 pin headers with two 2-pin locking molex connectors. If you have the header pins then you’ll receive a package with the new connectors.

You’ll Need:

• Y-stage
• “A” epoxy
• hook-up wire
• Molex locking connectors and crimp pins
• Male and female 4-pin connectors

• wire cutter
• soldering iron

 The female crimp pins mount in the side with the locking clasps. Use one connector if you are just wiring up the nichrome. Use two connectors if you are also attaching a thermistor. The procedure is the sames as follows just using the new connectors. Also, you do not need to epoxy the wires as these are much better connectors. Just make sure you push the crimp pins in so that they lock into place.

The 5-minute epoxy is no longer included in the kit. It is faster and easier to just use your glue gun. So, glue or mount the connectors as you see fit, based on the following:

Cut, strip and solder the hook-up wires as shown.

Thoroughly mix the two “A” epoxy components together then epoxy the male connector to the Y-stage as shown.

Solder hook-up wires to the Y-stage stand-offs.

Use epoxy to secure all of the individual hook-up wires to each other and to the connector – to prevent individual pins from coming loose. Secure the female connector to the male connector with Kapton or electrical tape so that it won’t come loose as the X/Y platform moves around during printing.

Completed HBP 1.0 heated platform without build surface mounting holes.

 

Completed HBP v1.1 ceramic plate and Y-stage.

 

Finished HBP v1.1 with 1/16" aluminum plate taped to the ceramic plate and optional adhesive temperature strips trimmed and mounted to the front edge of the ceramic plate.

HBP v1.1 hook-up wires:
The kit includes hook-up wires so that you can power your HBP directly from the power supply when printing with ABS and connect the HBP to your extruder controller when printing with PLA (so you can set the temp for the HBP).

The 12v wire on your PSU connector should be yellow and the black wires are ground (you should verify this using your meter). You'll need two pieces of hook-up wire long enough to run from your psu connector to you HBP - 18" should be plenty. Solder it up like you see in the photo - if you use the included wire then wire purple for 12v and black for ground. Wrap some electrical tape, kapton or shrink tubing around the exposed PSU connectors. Attach female crimp pins on the other end and insert them into the female 2-pin Molex connector (the one with the clip). If you are using the LED on your HBP be sure that your wire orientation matches your LED (negative to negative) so that the LED will work. Attach one end to your power supply (with the power off, of course) and the other end to the heater connector on your Y-stage.

Your HBP v1.1 kit includes a 2nd set of hook-up wires and two-pin molex connector so that you can also hook your HBP up to your extruder controller when printing with PLA.

Step 7: Heat. Test. Print!

Operating Instructions